muttley wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:42 am
Thats what its about man... Its in the detail. If you spend time on the detail there is way less chance of the whole picture being futzed. Its how I was taught and how I work now. Good enough aint good enough...
Right. There are some things I can't check first. I could apply power to the transformers and check all of the readings from the different taps, but that's pretty dangerous and I'm okay with just assuming they're good. They're brand new, so I feel okay with that assumption even though I know things can be bad out of the box. I don't have a tube tester so I have to assume the tubes are going to be okay. So we'll just see. I feel good about my prep work so far.
Today I'm going to the super-nerd electronics parts warehouse in town and I'm just gonna walk around and see if anything catches my eye that I might need or want. I know I'm going to get some more shrink tubing, grounding eyelets, and some large gauge buss wire for my grounding scheme. I will not be doing the stock Fender brass-plate method. Soldering to that plate will be a pain. I'm going to use either a Marshall style grounding plan, or a "buss bar" that runs along the chassis floor. The preamp stages, pots, and jacks will ground to the buss bar and connect to the chassis far away from the power supply. This will minimize eddy currents and shit that creates noise. The mains power and power supply grounds will ground near the power transformer. The reverb and output tranny will ground near the back of the chassis. This will hopefully negate any ground loops and minimize ground interference resulting in a hopefully dead-quiet amp. Hopefully.
I've also decided to add some external bias test points. That'll be a good feature to have. So I'll need to find some female test lead sockets.
