Shan's Lefty Righty Tele Build.

[muttley]

Dont go back to 180. Anything from 240 and above is pretty much just removing scuffs so start with 340 and work up from there. As I have always said, if you are unsure how the stain will take test on scrap that you have done the same prep to. Also dilute the stain down to something really soft and try building it up slowly. Depending on what you dilute with you can piss it down as much as you like.

[WhiskeyJack]

@muttley

After closer inspection the sides and neck were an actual mess of those deep deeps scars. I was rushing i guess when i started. While the back and the top of the body looked immaculate i didnt spend any where near long enough on the sides of the body oe the neck i guess.

I tried going back to 320 as you suggested but there was next to no progress being made? It may have been my technique oerhaps but its jusy sanding?! I spent about three nights in three hour chunks going at it wirh rhe 320, and nothing? I went across the grain, side to side followong the contour. Nothing None of it appeared to make a lick of difference. What ever made those striation scour marks on the bodys sides and the entire neck were in deep!!

I went back to 220 and started seeing results on the back of the neck and i got that mostly sorted and it should be relatively smooth sailing thru to the 600 now.

For the real bad spots on the side of the body (the area seen in the photo above) i ended going back to 120!!! I am now back up to 220 and it looks heaps better. Any striations left now are from that particual grit. I feel much better about all that.

I understand that by doing that i probably removed a bit more stock than i should have but given how deep whatever those marks were in the end grain, i dont know that i had much choice???

Lastly. How the heck do i go about fixing this??!? I tried popping the nut off so i could sand out the poly resin coating that was on that small strip of fimgerboard behimd the nut and this happened.

What do ?! Crazy glue and clamp or wood glue or is it toast?!

[Greg_L]

Put some super glue under there and clamp it down. It'll be fine.

[muttley]

Supergule and painters tape if you havent got any kicker.

[WhiskeyJack]

Supergule and painters tape if you havent got any kicker.

What does the painters tape do? to mask it off so the glue doesn't run?

[Greg_L]

What does the painters tape do? to mask it off so the glue doesn't run?

I think by "kicker" he means superglue accelerator. Without that, you tape it down till the glue sets.

That's my guess!

[WhiskeyJack]

Makes sense. I'll run up and glue it on my lunch break. i'll use the tape and clamp maybe as i have no kicker or accelerator.

the rate this is going i don't need accelerator. snails pace is fine whit me.

[muttley]

What does the painters tape do? to mask it off so the glue doesn't run?

I think by "kicker" he means superglue accelerator. Without that, you tape it down till the glue sets.

That's my guess!

Yep.

You can spray something like that with a mist of water and it will kick it off. By the time you have sanded it back and oiled it you will never see a join.

[WhiskeyJack]

I think by "kicker" he means superglue accelerator. Without that, you tape it down till the glue sets.

That's my guess!

Yep.

You can spray something like that with a mist of water and it will kick it off. By the time you have sanded it back and oiled it you will never see a join.

We got this stuff over here called Gorilla Glue that you have to wet the surfaces you are trying to glue and it is supposed to foam a bit but form a rock solid bond. I've not ever used it but is that similar to what you are talking about you think?

Actually that whole line of Gorilla products are spoken of pretty highly as well. One fella i know switch to their line of construction adhesive and ditched Lepage PL Premium for it? I don't know how you'd ever test for something like that outside of his trade (framer) but i would think that says alot.


Ok thanks you both. I think i will just super glue it and let it set over night before doing much more on the neck.

[Greg_L]

We got this stuff over here called Gorilla Glue that you have to wet the surfaces you are trying to glue and it is supposed to foam a bit but form a rock solid bond. I've not ever used it but is that similar to what you are talking about you think?

Actually that whole line of Gorilla products are spoken of pretty highly as well. One fella i know switch to their line of construction adhesive and ditched Lepage PL Premium for it? I don't know how you'd ever test for something like that outside of his trade (framer) but i would think that says alot.


Ok thanks you both. I think i will just super glue it and let it set over night before doing much more on the neck.

Gorilla glue is good stuff for general use, but I think it's way too thick for fine detail guitar work. That shit foams and gets gummy. Way too thick.

[muttley]

Yep.

You can spray something like that with a mist of water and it will kick it off. By the time you have sanded it back and oiled it you will never see a join.

We got this stuff over here called Gorilla Glue that you have to wet the surfaces you are trying to glue and it is supposed to foam a bit but form a rock solid bond. I've not ever used it but is that similar to what you are talking about you think?

Actually that whole line of Gorilla products are spoken of pretty highly as well. One fella i know switch to their line of construction adhesive and ditched Lepage PL Premium for it? I don't know how you'd ever test for something like that outside of his trade (framer) but i would think that says alot.


Ok thanks you both. I think i will just super glue it and let it set over night before doing much more on the neck.

That is a polyurethane glue suitable for construction and gap filling. It has no place on guitar bench other than for jigs and tool repair. You need cyanoacrylate which is what I think you guys call crazy glue. It will kick off with water but leaves a white crusty residue. That will clean up on rosewood or ebony.

The Gorilla glue is good for door and window casings in construction, I've used tons of it lately. I even used the high tack, high foam one to install dry wall instead of srewing back on my kitchen and its fantastic for that...

[Lt. Bob]

That is a polyurethane glue suitable for construction and gap filling. It has no place on guitar bench other than for jigs and tool repair. You need cyanoacrylate which is what I think you guys call crazy glue. It will kick off with water but leaves a white crusty residue. That will clean up on rosewood or ebony.

The Gorilla glue is good for door and window casings in construction, I've used tons of it lately. I even used the high tack, high foam one to install dry wall instead of srewing back on my kitchen and its fantastic for that...

why super glue instead of wood glue?

I've always thought of super glue as a no-no and thought wood glue made a stronger bond for gluing wood.

[WhiskeyJack]

That is a polyurethane glue suitable for construction and gap filling. It has no place on guitar bench other than for jigs and tool repair. You need cyanoacrylate which is what I think you guys call crazy glue. It will kick off with water but leaves a white crusty residue. That will clean up on rosewood or ebony.

The Gorilla glue is good for door and window casings in construction, I've used tons of it lately. I even used the high tack, high foam one to install dry wall instead of screwing back on my kitchen and its fantastic for that...

Awesome. Turns out my bottle of the foamy gorilla glued dried out entirely so even if it was the right product for the job i'd have still just used my tube of crazy glue. Great run down mutt thanks.

I wouldn't ever use any of that (or any) construction adhesive for any of this stuff. ever. was more just pointing out it the Gorilla line seems to be taking over some old roles of older products. I used to work in a building supply center and i find it fascinating to see the gorilla line have grown to the lengthy list of products it now has. As i think when i got out of all that the first year Gorilla glue was rolled out and it was a one trick pony of just "glue" Now it has pretty much anything adhesive related. I didn't think it would take off the way it did. Nice to hear you speak highly of it's merits as well i will likely make the switch from lepage to gorilla when i need that kind of stuff again.

Anywhooo, The piece is in place and glued i'll check it this morning sometime and see how it set overnight and get back to sanding tonight. All my outdoor work in the evenings is now on hold with the gobs of rain we are supposed to get between now and Sunday.

[muttley]

That is a polyurethane glue suitable for construction and gap filling. It has no place on guitar bench other than for jigs and tool repair. You need cyanoacrylate which is what I think you guys call crazy glue. It will kick off with water but leaves a white crusty residue. That will clean up on rosewood or ebony.

The Gorilla glue is good for door and window casings in construction, I've used tons of it lately. I even used the high tack, high foam one to install dry wall instead of srewing back on my kitchen and its fantastic for that...

why super glue instead of wood glue?

I've always thought of super glue as a no-no and thought wood glue made a stronger bond for gluing wood.

It does, but on that the split isnt under any stress. I use superglue to repair chips splits cracks and dings all the time as it is quick and effective and near invisible if the join goes back correctly. A joint under any stress, no way...

[WhiskeyJack]

Better-ish.

Onwards.

[Greg_L]

Better-ish.

Onwards.

Shit, that looks good.


Now about those frets...are they popping up out of the fretboard?
Or is that just a shadow/angle illusion?

[rayc]

Tidy gluing Shan.

[JD01]

Yeah, you've made a tidy job of that, mate.

[WhiskeyJack]

Thanks [mention]Greg_L[/mention] [mention]rayc[/mention] and [mention]JD01[/mention]

Now about those frets...are they popping up out of the fretboard?
Or is that just a shadow/angle illusion?

It is a little bit of both actually. I noticed when i started sanding the neck down some of the frets aren't seated in there as correctly as they should be and resting right up on the finger board. The angle of my shop lights do make it look worse than it is as the gap from the bottom of the fretwire to the board as most of the gaps are sub-millimeter but still will need work. My plan is use one of my wide rubber toothed clamps and see if i can squish them down in there maybe. The frets all around need work. leveling and dressing the ends etc but i am not going to do that if i can't address the little gaps.

I feel like that is all stuff i should have done first but for some reason the "instruction book" i got from the manufacturer has all the fret stuff in order after the sanding and finishing. Which doesn't make sense to me if i have to clamp it down or put it in a vice to do all that stuff???

[Greg_L]

It is a little bit of both actually. I noticed when i started sanding the neck down some of the frets aren't seated in there as correctly as they should be and resting right up on the finger board. The angle of my shop lights do make it look worse than it is as the gap from the bottom of the fretwire to the board as most of the gaps are sub-millimeter but still will need work. My plan is use one of my wide rubber toothed clamps and see if i can squish them down in there maybe. The frets all around need work. leveling and dressing the ends etc but i am not going to do that if i can't address the little gaps.

I feel like that is all stuff i should have done first but for some reason the "instruction book" i got from the manufacturer has all the fret stuff in order after the sanding and finishing. Which doesn't make sense to me if i have to clamp it down or put it in a vice to do all that stuff???

I don't fuck with frets, but I do know you can't do a damn thing with them unless they are SEATED into their slots. That's first, foremost, #1, gotta do it. There's no point in leveling and crowning frets that aren't even installed properly.